WHAT IS TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE?
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) is a stabilized derivative of Vitamin C, closely related to L-ascorbic acid. In the skin, enzymes convert THD into pure vitamin C, or ascorbic acid. Unlike its water-soluble counterpart, THD is fat-soluble, enabling it to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. This unique property allows it to interact effectively with vitamin E, naturally present in the skin, to enhance the skin's support system through lipid pathways.
Researchers have found that THD’s fatty acid component improves absorption, giving it a higher affinity for skin tissue. It works well in conjunction with other forms of vitamin C, vitamin E, green tea, and retinol, which amplifies its anti-aging effects.
BRIGHTER SKIN WITH VITAMIN C
THD’s fat-soluble nature plays a crucial role in neutralizing free radicals that damage skin lipids, such as ceramides and cholesterol. While ascorbic acid primarily targets surface-level free radicals, THD goes deeper, offering comprehensive antioxidant protection. Concentrations as low as 0.1% provide antioxidant benefits; however, it is commonly used in concentrations up to 2% for enhanced skin health and environmental defense.
For tackling hyperpigmentation, higher concentrations of 5% or more are required for optimal benefits. THD operates most effectively at a pH of 6 or below and can be paired with niacinamide and licorice root for improved reduction of discoloration. Studies have shown that a 30% concentration, when used with other active agents, can significantly improve stubborn hyperpigmentation and is particularly effective for melasma-prone skin.
FOR CLEAR COMPLEXION
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a potent antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radical damage caused by environmental factors like UV rays and pollution. This protection can reduce potential irritation and inflammation that exacerbate blemishes.
Vitamin C is known to promote collagen production, which can improve skin texture and enhance healing, helping to minimize the appearance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots left after blemishes heal).
While not primarily used for this purpose, some studies suggest that Vitamin C can help balance oil production, which may be beneficial for those with oily, blemish-prone skin.
Regular use of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate can lead to a more even skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and discolorations, which are common concerns for those with blemish-prone skin.